IMAGINE a warm fire crackling in the grate as you lounge lazily in a deep enveloping armchair, perusing the menu while the wind howls outside. You might consider fillet of beef accompanied by Dauphinois potatoes, sautéed wild mushrooms and a Madeira jus. Just right for a cold wet night. However, the chicken vindaloo with saffron and cinnamon rice evokes visions of balmy evenings in Goa.
In fact, there is a distinctly colonial air to the Hartnoll Hotel. The vast coffee table in the lounge boasts copies of the Tatler and an illustrated tome on Raffles in Singapore. Triple leaf shaped fans hang high above linen covered tables with contrasting black napkins in the lofty conservatory restaurant that looks out over manicured lawns. And although the menu may draw on flavours of warmer climes, it proudly declares its allegiance to South-West England with the likes of Somerset beef and lamb, and fish caught off Devon’s coastline.
Led by Steve Cox, the three chefs work closely together, experimenting with combinations of flavours to bring new dishes to a menu that is constantly evolving. And they aim to cater for all tastes. Beer battered cod with chips and pea puree sits easily on the menu, beside the rich blend of roasted monkfish, creamed Savoy cabbage and chorizo. It’s a strong, well-balanced range of dishes and that includes desserts. From honey and bee pollen ice cream complemented by orange blossom panna cotta to simple West Country cheeses, there’s something here for everybody.
The wine list is reasonably priced, with a good selection of grape varieties. Service is friendly, professional and efficient. All in all, an exceedingly pleasant respite from the rigours of daily life.
Hartnoll Country House Hotel
Bolham Road, Bolham, Tiverton EX16 7RA
Tel. 01884 252777. www.hartnollhotel.co.uk
Sample Menu
Starters
Saffron, pea and crayfish risotto served with pesto dressed leaves, £6.25
Chicken liver parfait with red onion marmalade and toasted granary bread, £5.95
Mains
Pan seared breast of free range duck, fondant potato, honey roast parsnip and a carrot, orange and cinnamon jus, £16.95
Roasted cannon of Somerset lamb, Dauphinois potatoes, fine ratatouille and confit garlic served with a thyme and apricot jus, 15.95
Pan seared fillet of salmon with chive mash and a vanilla and fish veloute, £14.95
Puds
Tonka bean and white chocolate cheesecake served with cherry and champagne coulis and a lemon zest sorbet, £5.75
Blackberry and apple sable, calvados chantilly and fresh blackberries sandwiched between crisp shortbread biscuits topped with apple sorbet, £5.75